I'm sitting in the Tocumen Airport in Panama (a man, a plan, a canal--Panama!), on the last leg of my journey back from the States. While there, I was asked lots of questions that I did not have answer for! So, here are some of the frequently asked questions, and the answers that I have managed to find.
1. What is the population of Belo Horizonte? It's approximately 2.4 million in BH proper, and over 5 million in the Belo Horizonte Metropolitan area. It is indeed the 3rd largest city in Brasil, and as I like to say, the biggest city in Brasil that no one in the US knows about.
2. What's the elevation? What's the climate like? It's about 2800 feet above sea level. The climate is called "tropical savanna climate" and it borders on a "humid subtropical climate." All to say, it's pretty much the same temperature year round. It is dry in the winter (about March to about October), and it rains in the winter (December, January, early February).
3. What about favelas (slums)? Our neighborhood is home to one of the largest favelas in BH, with about 46,000 residents. There are medical clinics in the favela (5, according to one website), but as far as I can tell, there are no schools in the favela. I have never been the the favela, and from what I have gathered it is one of the safer favelas in our city.
4. How far are you from the equator? Our latitude is 19°55'S. I think we are about 2500 kilometers south of the equator, or 1553 miles south of the equator. We are not in the Amazon Rainforest. We are not near the Amazon river.
5. Do you speak Portuguese? Do your kids speak Portuguese? Well, I usually can get through my days without too many major problems. I can go to the grocery store, take the bus, make phone calls to schedule dentist appointments, and talk to teachers. It's hard for me to evaluate my children's ability (since my Portuguese is still pretty basic), but I would say that they are doing remarkably well. Sebastian has had sleepovers at a friends house where they only speak Portuguese, Beatrice plays with the 3 other little girls who live in our apartment building, and Dora corrects my mistakes. It makes so much more sense to expose younger kids to another language than high schoolers (i.e. we've got it backwards with language in the U.S.)
6. Do they still make Volkswagen Beetles (Fuscas) in Brazil? No, production stopped in 1996. The last Beetle ever made was in Puebla, Mexico in 2003.
7. And not frequently asked questions, but some of my favorite: What is the Catholic Church doing regarding family planning? Why don't Brazilians put screens on their windows to keep the bugs out? What is the octane level of gasoline in Brazil? What is being done to prepare for the Olympics/World Cup? What is President Dilma doing regarding economic development? . Either I don't know the answer to the questions, or I don't feel like I should answer them.
Alright--off to my gate, and back the reality of having to work hard to listen and understand, driving on bumpy roads, and loving on my kids and husband. Thank you to them for the gift of letting me take this trip!
Monday, January 31, 2011
Thursday, January 27, 2011
Moqueca
I decided to treat my parents to some Brazilian food while visiting Washington state. My friend Corinne (who many of you fellow expat bloggers know!) suggested that I make Moqueca. "What?" I sadly responded. Somehow I'd managed to live in Brazil for 10 months and not try Moqueca, a yummy type of fish stew with coconut milk, cilantro, tomatoes, onions, pepper and dende oil. I mentioned it to my husband, and he said, "oh yeah, that's what I ate when I spent the night on the Amazon..." I bought Dende Oil in BH, and then used this recipe and this one (the Baiana version) to create my Moqueca. I wish I could say this was my picture,
but I borrowed it from one of my favorite food blogs. If only my kids liked fish, I'd add this to my repertoire.
but I borrowed it from one of my favorite food blogs. If only my kids liked fish, I'd add this to my repertoire.
Monday, January 24, 2011
Almost homemade pão de queijo
I decided to bring some Brazilian treats home with me, and give my parents a "taste" of Brazil. I brought Cachaça to make Caiparinhas, Canastra cheese and guava paste to make "Romeu e Julieta", dende oil to make Moqueca, and a Vilma mix to make Pão de queijo.
I accidentally added the wrong amount of water the mix (darn those metric measurements, and written in Portuguese!), but thankfully I had 2 packets, and was able to make a double recipe. Yum. I'm usually not a pre-packaged mix kinda gal, but I have to say these were very good. And I think my parents liked them too!
I accidentally added the wrong amount of water the mix (darn those metric measurements, and written in Portuguese!), but thankfully I had 2 packets, and was able to make a double recipe. Yum. I'm usually not a pre-packaged mix kinda gal, but I have to say these were very good. And I think my parents liked them too!
To flush or not to flush
Hello from the US! Several people have asked me what the most challenging thing has been since being back in the States, and I must admit that it's flushing toilet paper. For 10 months, I've been "trashing" my toilet paper, rather than flushing. I knew before I moved to Brasil that trashing was the method of disposal, and I've spent time in Mexico, so it's not so strange to me. But why is it that we trash rather than flush? I've heard several theories:
1. Toilets and the sewage systems in the US are equipped with a small kind of garbage disposal at the end of the pipes that chops up the toilet paper and makes it able to break down more easily, and not cause a problem.
2. Toilet paper in Brasil (and Mexico) is made differently, and more difficult to break down.
3. The sewer system and the "pipes" are not quite the same quality as those in the US.
So, I've decided to do an informal pesquisa. Online I found this:
"Most treatment plants in the developing world function only partially / periodically; from your link: In Latin America about 15% of collected wastewater passes through treatment plants and that 15% claim is pretty optimistic. Moreover, given all the weird stuff people flush, TP is not in the slightest the biggest problem for treatment plants -- you wouldn't believe the things that come in through the pipes.
As suggested, it's at the consumer end, for what I think are three or four reasons. Water-flush toilets are surprisingly delicate creatures -- they need to be connected to drain pipes of specific sizes and laid at exact slopes (too flat and they clog; too steep and the liquids drain faster and the solids clog) and made from certain materials connected in specific ways; they need TP manufactured to specific tolerances (ever tried flushing a wad of paper towels?); and they need reliable and fairly pure water sources. In many houses in the developing world, several of those factors won't be there -- smaller outflow pipes, laid a bit too haphazardly and with too many bends; water supply that comes and goes; TP of uncertain origin; and so on.
But feces is water-soluble, so even a very imperfect system can tolerate poop being flushed down it; the less soluble TP (especially imperfect TP that might be too tough or too thick), feminine hygiene products, and other goodies will cause clogs where poop won't. Hence the trashcan next to the toilet and the signs saying "don't flush the paper!"
Of course, at some point that prohibition becomes cultural rather than simply practical, and even in houses with perfectly-functioning modern toilets that can take anything you throw at them, you will still see the TP bins.
And then I asked my dad, fount of much knowledge, and he says that it's because sewage pipes are not large enough to handle large amounts of waste that is not "natural" waste.
So all this to say, I would recommend NOT flushing while in Brasil. In our apartment, the toilet paper just swirls around the toilet bowl for 3 or 4 flushes, until it finally goes down. Yes, it's kinda gross to have a stinky trash can, but we change it pretty regularly, and either use plastic bags or clean with bleach to keep things clean. I don't think that many expats know about this little rule, because we've had lots of American expat visitors visit, and after doing their business, I find paper remaining in the toilet bowl. So here is your a friendly public service announcement from an American living in Brasil: Use the trash can!
1. Toilets and the sewage systems in the US are equipped with a small kind of garbage disposal at the end of the pipes that chops up the toilet paper and makes it able to break down more easily, and not cause a problem.
2. Toilet paper in Brasil (and Mexico) is made differently, and more difficult to break down.
3. The sewer system and the "pipes" are not quite the same quality as those in the US.
So, I've decided to do an informal pesquisa. Online I found this:
"Most treatment plants in the developing world function only partially / periodically; from your link: In Latin America about 15% of collected wastewater passes through treatment plants and that 15% claim is pretty optimistic. Moreover, given all the weird stuff people flush, TP is not in the slightest the biggest problem for treatment plants -- you wouldn't believe the things that come in through the pipes.
As suggested, it's at the consumer end, for what I think are three or four reasons. Water-flush toilets are surprisingly delicate creatures -- they need to be connected to drain pipes of specific sizes and laid at exact slopes (too flat and they clog; too steep and the liquids drain faster and the solids clog) and made from certain materials connected in specific ways; they need TP manufactured to specific tolerances (ever tried flushing a wad of paper towels?); and they need reliable and fairly pure water sources. In many houses in the developing world, several of those factors won't be there -- smaller outflow pipes, laid a bit too haphazardly and with too many bends; water supply that comes and goes; TP of uncertain origin; and so on.
But feces is water-soluble, so even a very imperfect system can tolerate poop being flushed down it; the less soluble TP (especially imperfect TP that might be too tough or too thick), feminine hygiene products, and other goodies will cause clogs where poop won't. Hence the trashcan next to the toilet and the signs saying "don't flush the paper!"
Of course, at some point that prohibition becomes cultural rather than simply practical, and even in houses with perfectly-functioning modern toilets that can take anything you throw at them, you will still see the TP bins.
And then I asked my dad, fount of much knowledge, and he says that it's because sewage pipes are not large enough to handle large amounts of waste that is not "natural" waste.
So all this to say, I would recommend NOT flushing while in Brasil. In our apartment, the toilet paper just swirls around the toilet bowl for 3 or 4 flushes, until it finally goes down. Yes, it's kinda gross to have a stinky trash can, but we change it pretty regularly, and either use plastic bags or clean with bleach to keep things clean. I don't think that many expats know about this little rule, because we've had lots of American expat visitors visit, and after doing their business, I find paper remaining in the toilet bowl. So here is your a friendly public service announcement from an American living in Brasil: Use the trash can!
Tuesday, January 18, 2011
Sun
As most of you have probably heard from the news, it's been raining LOTS in Brazil. Thankfully, we are safe, and Belo Horizonte is a long way away from the horrible mudslides. My thoughts go out to all those who have suffered in this disaster.
And, we are grateful for sun. I used to live in the Pacific Northwest, and enjoyed the rain, and didn't think that grey weather really affected me all that much. Then we moved to Arizona. I remember waking up one morning in Tempe, and opening the blinds, and telling Matt, "looks like another nice day!" and feeling so good about it (despite the fact that it was super hot). And I realized that sunshine really did make a difference for me. The best part of sunny days here, is that we can play outside, and go swimming. Summer vacation (in my mind) is supposed to be the time when kids play outside, and spend hours by the pool. When it's raining like cats and dogs, it's hard to keep the kids (and parents happy). And honestly, there's not a whole heck of a lot to do indoors in Belo Horizonte this time of years. It's vacation, so the city has a very sleepy, slow pace, and several museums are closed. But here's to sunshine!
And I'm going to leave it! I'm taking a trip back to the states for the first time in 10 months to visit family. I'm SOOO looking forward to it. But before I leave, I'm stuffing myself with mangoes (mangoes for breakfast and Jim's yummy Mango Banana Sorbet. So you probably won't hear from me much more the month of January, but don't worry. I'll be gorging myself on Mexican Food and getting some quality time with my parents.
And, we are grateful for sun. I used to live in the Pacific Northwest, and enjoyed the rain, and didn't think that grey weather really affected me all that much. Then we moved to Arizona. I remember waking up one morning in Tempe, and opening the blinds, and telling Matt, "looks like another nice day!" and feeling so good about it (despite the fact that it was super hot). And I realized that sunshine really did make a difference for me. The best part of sunny days here, is that we can play outside, and go swimming. Summer vacation (in my mind) is supposed to be the time when kids play outside, and spend hours by the pool. When it's raining like cats and dogs, it's hard to keep the kids (and parents happy). And honestly, there's not a whole heck of a lot to do indoors in Belo Horizonte this time of years. It's vacation, so the city has a very sleepy, slow pace, and several museums are closed. But here's to sunshine!
And I'm going to leave it! I'm taking a trip back to the states for the first time in 10 months to visit family. I'm SOOO looking forward to it. But before I leave, I'm stuffing myself with mangoes (mangoes for breakfast and Jim's yummy Mango Banana Sorbet. So you probably won't hear from me much more the month of January, but don't worry. I'll be gorging myself on Mexican Food and getting some quality time with my parents.
Thursday, January 13, 2011
Things that go crash in the night
As I was going to sleep last night, I heard some strange crashing noise outside. But thankfully I was tired enough to fall asleep pretty quickly. But then in the middle of the night, I got woken up by a red headed 3 year old who had a bad dream. After comforting her, I crawled back into bed, but I couldn't get back to sleep, because I kept hearing this really loud crashing/banging noise at random intervals. I was starting to get really frustrated, and resorted to my middle of the night logic, and concluded that it had to be one of the following things:
1. Someone throwing rocks at a metal fence, trying to get out their aggression at 3 am.
2. Cars driving over a loose manhole or one of those metal things that covers road construction. Even though I knew there had been no road construction and there are no manholes on the street behind our house.
3. Construction workers banging away at random. This may seem far fetched, but I had seen a man spraying the freshly laid concrete at the apartment being built two buildings down at 10 pm.
I finally got up, and stared out the window. After a few minutes, I finally realized what was making this loud noise (not any of the above). Any guesses?
Falling mangoes. Yep, my favorite fruit kept me up last night. The school behind our house has a HUGE mango tree, and because of the wind and rain, the ripe ones were falling off the tree, crashing onto the tin roof of gym. Who woulda known?
1. Someone throwing rocks at a metal fence, trying to get out their aggression at 3 am.
2. Cars driving over a loose manhole or one of those metal things that covers road construction. Even though I knew there had been no road construction and there are no manholes on the street behind our house.
3. Construction workers banging away at random. This may seem far fetched, but I had seen a man spraying the freshly laid concrete at the apartment being built two buildings down at 10 pm.
I finally got up, and stared out the window. After a few minutes, I finally realized what was making this loud noise (not any of the above). Any guesses?
Falling mangoes. Yep, my favorite fruit kept me up last night. The school behind our house has a HUGE mango tree, and because of the wind and rain, the ripe ones were falling off the tree, crashing onto the tin roof of gym. Who woulda known?
Tuesday, January 11, 2011
WE HAVE TORTILLA (like) CHIPS PEOPLE
Oh, I'm just so dang excited! If I'd been asked a year ago what I thought I would miss in while living in Brazil (I should give an English lesson on that sentence!), I would not have anticipated chips and salsa. I've been able to get my coffee (even a homemade vanilla latte every once in a while), my occasional carbonated beverage fix (no Diet Coke here, but Coke Zero kind of works), I make pancakes, I can get bubble gum, no Mike-N-Ikes (but I haven't really craved them). I didn't really realize how much I missed Butterfingers until I got one in my stocking at Christmas. And there were things I missed at the holidays, like eggnog and leftover pumpkin pie and Matt's creme brulee. But chips and salsa have been the thing I've missed most often, most frequently. I made some killer enchiladas today, and was hoping that we could find some Dorito Dippas to go with. We went to a party around Christmas at our friend Marcio's house, and he pulled them out right as we left. Matt went to Verde Mar, I looked at Mart Plus and Super Nosso and Carrefour, (the major supermercados) but no dice. Until tonight...
I made brownies (I see a theme here of making things...hmmm), and we had to go to the store for ice cream. I went to the corner Aruajo (drugstore kinda like CVS or Walgreens). And low and behold, in the check out line, were 4 bags of Dippas. I bought two bags for R$2.89 each. What a steal!
Matt and I are going to enjoy these tonight with some homemade guacamole and salsa. Matt bought some "mexican" peppers at the Mercado Central the other day, and was advised that they were the hottest. I cut one open today, and it tasted like a red pepper. Nice and sweet, but no spice. Today, during his search for Dippas, he found this pepper at Verde Mar:
It's called "Dedo-da-Moça" or Girl's Finger. I was sitting downstairs with some other parents, so I asked them, but they'd never heard of it. I had, from this blog. I told him that I thought it was good, but to take a taste to make sure. Heh heh, little did I know he took a chomp, and it burned! I should have taken a picture of the pepper he took a bite out of. I chopped up a few, added it with onion, tomato, lime juice and salt. No cilantro unfortunately--the market has been out for 2 days. (ah, Brazil!). Yum!
I made brownies (I see a theme here of making things...hmmm), and we had to go to the store for ice cream. I went to the corner Aruajo (drugstore kinda like CVS or Walgreens). And low and behold, in the check out line, were 4 bags of Dippas. I bought two bags for R$2.89 each. What a steal!
Matt and I are going to enjoy these tonight with some homemade guacamole and salsa. Matt bought some "mexican" peppers at the Mercado Central the other day, and was advised that they were the hottest. I cut one open today, and it tasted like a red pepper. Nice and sweet, but no spice. Today, during his search for Dippas, he found this pepper at Verde Mar:
It's called "Dedo-da-Moça" or Girl's Finger. I was sitting downstairs with some other parents, so I asked them, but they'd never heard of it. I had, from this blog. I told him that I thought it was good, but to take a taste to make sure. Heh heh, little did I know he took a chomp, and it burned! I should have taken a picture of the pepper he took a bite out of. I chopped up a few, added it with onion, tomato, lime juice and salt. No cilantro unfortunately--the market has been out for 2 days. (ah, Brazil!). Yum!
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